I walked toward the five-point intersection on Nageshi-dori. Taken by the sight of a wooden building with a glass-faced entrance, I stopped to take a closer look. Beneath the tile roofing was a large sign with the words Spice Cafe Cuhponos written on it.

Stepping inside I was greeted by an almost otherworldly scent. The walls were the color of turmeric, and there were several mirrors hung around the interior. There were framed photos of women from many different countries. Colorful paper lanterns hung from the ceiling and there was a retro looking fan and a shaved ice maker. Green house plants were placed about, and sunlight filtered in through the windows. Honestly I felt like I had accidentally stepped on to the set of a film.

I met the two owners. Sono-san originally came to Beppu as a researcher of urban planning at a university, after which she continued living in Beppu, loved by all who know her. Phuc came to Beppu when he enrolled as a student at Ritsumeikan Asia Pacific University. Sharing a mutual love of Beppu, the two met and opened this cafe in the summer of 2016.

Their customers come from many backgrounds and include tourists, foreign exchange students, backpackers, and of course locals as well. One of their regular customers is 97 years old, and stopped by to have an avocado drink while I was there.

Sono-san and Phuc may not share the same age, gender, nationality, or religion, but what they do share is a belief in the importance of sitting and eating together around the same table. This idea also translates to Beppu’s many public baths and hot springs. The two friends renovated this 100 year old townhouse with the help of a local carpenter, creating their ideal cafe with each nail and screw.

I ordered the lunch set, which comes with chicken pho, salad, and Vietnamese coffee. The rice flour noodles of the pho were perfectly clear and had a wonderful texture. The bright and colorful salad came with chickpeas and a generous amount of vegetables. The rich coffee served with condensed milk was the perfect companion for a moment of relaxation after my meal.

There is no specific division of labor between Sono-san and Phuc — they both do whatever needs doing at the moment. Like close friends sharing a meal together, serving each other before themselves eating, the two have a relationship of caring.

The dishes and tableware used at the cafe were collected gradually over time from places around the world. Who knows how many people have eaten from these plates and drank from these cups. “If the dish changes, the food we cook to put on it changes too. It’s a fluid relationship.”

Sono-san is dedicated to capturing the act of eating through architecture itself, while Phuc has dreams of a self-sustainable village. They taught me the words “live in harmony”. Cuhponos, the name of the cafe, is a word they created, the name of a new planet that represents their ideology.

For these two, the word “spice” applies to more than just food — it’s one part of living an exciting life. Add a dash of spice to life, and people become more energetic, more alive. Sono-san and Phuc are themselves the spice of Beppu. Cuhponos certainly is a unique cafe, but after spending some time there I strongly felt it’s sense of belonging in Beppu. After eating their food, my breathing became steady, and my heart felt resolved. I thanked them for the meal and was on my way. I felt like I could go just about anywhere in the world.